Above and Beyond

Leaving Christchurch we headed south, then west across the Canterbury Plains. This vast flat landscape, formed in the late Pleistocene era around 3 million years ago from the glacial moraines of the Southern Alps which frames them, is now fertile farmland. Enormous automated irrigation schemes installed in the past 50 years have changed to productivity beyond recognition.

We stopped briefly at Burkes Pass where my 2x great-uncle, Alfred Jennison was buried in 1897. His story will be told elsewhere. This hamlet has the craziest store/museum just inviting visitors to take a break and raise a smile.

Johnny at Burkess Pass museum

Lake Tekapo, a turquoise vision, and wild lupins are a breathtaking sight.

From Lake Tekapo to Lake Pukaki is a very short journey and here we had our first real sighting of Aoraki/Mount Cook, New Zealand’s highest mountain at 3,724 metres high. So often shrouded in cloud, it was showing off its full majestic beauty to us; we were so lucky. Our accommodation at The Hermitage did not disappoint either.

The following morning the clouds had descended, the mountains gone, but the walk to Lake Hooker was so worthwhile. Suddenly, there is the lake with icebergs the size of whales, silently protesting their thaw. It was an emotional moment to take in this site, made all the more extraordinary by the Canada geese who were feeding from the bottom of the lake, but on what? The water was 3℃.

Leaving the National Park we headed down the Waitaki river past the manmade Lakes Benmore, Aviemore and Waitaki before arriving at Nicola and Grant Neal’s amazing home, garden and more surprises. Their adorable children, Quin and Greer showed us moa bones found on their property. These flightless birds have been extinct for over 600 years.

And in this fantasy garden, where Disney filmed “Nania”, there are fossils of dolphins and other sea creatures, a mere 200 meters above sea level. Oh, and just to confound us even more the kowhai (Saphora) tree growing in the valley has been dated at over 800 years old.

We are so grateful to Neal family for their hospitality. Johnny had been developing a nasty viral infection so it was time to head to the coast but not before the car flashed its engine light at us making our journey to Dunedin and St Clair even more of a mercy dash.