Islands and an Isthmus

The Bay of Islands is made up of over 140 subtropical islands. Besides being spectacularly beautiful this is also a significant region in the history of Aotearoa/New Zealand. Long before European people (Pakeha) visited and began exploring and settling here there were significant Maori settlements of the Ngapuhi Iwi (tribe) in this location.

Captain James Cook made a landing here in 1769. He was greet by the indigenous people with a powhiri (welcome) which was interpreted as being hostile. Apparently Cook had misunderstood the generosity of the local Maori some days earlier when they have given him food and he had given nothing in return. A sort of early form of shoplifting. News of this unequal transaction had proceeded his landing at Robertson Island the locals had gathered to collect their reparations. Cook drew a line in the sand to demonstrate that if the Maori did not cross, all would be good. But as the powhiri proceeded some of Cooks men opened fire and injured the locals. Cook retreated to his ship and waited 3 days before deciding that he should see if he could help the injured. We do not know if guilt or the need to trade was the motivation but eventually he approached with a different mindset and medical aid was provided to the injured persons. It is said that he climbed to the top of Roberston Island and declared the area to be a Bay of Island. Whalers and sealers settled in the area and the first capital of New Zealand was established in Okiato in 1840. This didn’t last very long; a year later Russell was named as the capital. Russell was also referred to as the Hell Hole of New Zealand as the great unwashed, prostitutes and local Maori each vied for trade. Today this picturesque waterside town is quaint and reveals nothing of its murky past.

Our first stay in the Bay of Islands was in Pohutakawa Cottage close to the settlement of Te Tii. If ever a place was designed to steal your soul it was this one. On the edge of a beautiful and ever changing lagoon, complete with passing stingrays, and next to a stunning silver sand beach. Our home for the next 4 nights was so glorious that we extended it for an extra night. Paddleboards, kayaks, sun and tranquility. At night we could hear the kiwi calling and during the day we could watch the tide change as the paradise ducks, herons, shags, tui provided their own music.

The cottage was stunningly simplistic in style; minimal elegance. The all-round deck, the outdoor heated shower, the yoga studio, the gas barbecue, comfortable and tasteful furnishings, hand made plates and mugs all combined to make this unique accommodation a dream.

This idyll is 20 minutes from the town of Kerikeri, a town we’ve visited before and which we both love, but after a few days in this peaceful isolation Kerikeri felt busy and people talked too noisily so our trip there was sufficient only to replenish supplies before hurrying back to watch the tide changing. During our time there we paddle boarded for 4 kms and and kayaking for over 8 kms on the lagoon and up the river. In truth Johnny did a lot more of both activities while Leslie became more closely acquainted with the sun loungers.

The beach, with its gentle warm water was a splendid and by crossing a stream we were able to reach another lagoon that was cut off during the receding tide by a rock reef. The water temperature was superb for swimming and the weather remained perfect. Two local fisherman offered us freshly caught snapper on our last evening as we watched the sunset and the ascent of the moon with Venus and Saturn in alignment. Could this place be more perfect?

From Te Tii we moved to Ekaat, closer to Russell. This cottage had everything … and when we say everything we mean EVERYTHING. More than one life-times collections of decorations, ornamentations, accessories, notifications, colour combinations adorned the walls, gardens, and any other available space. Statues of every conceivable animal, both real and imaginary abounded; why wouldn’t you have an area of your garden dedicated to concrete carnivores, another to reptiles, and more to insects, birds, primates, dinosaurs and gods of Hindu, Buddist and possibly Agnostic persuasions? However, the bedroom and bathroom were very spacious, and the view over the oyster farm below was beautiful. It was comfortable and spotlessly clean.

During our first night there was heavy rain further south which meant that the roads to Northland were impassable, we were cut off form the rest of New Zealand and it didn’t matter at all! However, it did matter to our friend Helen Forty from Truro in Cornwall who was also stranded in Russell, unbeknown to us, until she sent a message telling of her plight. This lead to a very enjoyable day together visiting the treaty grounds at Waitangi (via a back gate to avoid the very stiff admission fee) and a wonderful 3 hour cruise on the bay visiting two different islands with time for swimming and more paddle boarding. Helen was able to drive off the following morning via a detour and we followed the next day but not before we had a delightful meal at The Gables on the Russell waterfront, replicating a photograph from 9 years previous.

Our journey south meant negotiating the detour and of course, with the same ability to deny the “road ahead closed” signs, as we had in California three months ago, we ended up having to double back and retrace our steps. Eventually we arrived in Auckland and headed to the ferry and Waiheke Island in the Hauraki Gulf, once the home of hippies and recluses, now the venue of choice for the hip and well healed.

We were so fortunate to have the use of a beautifully appointed home at Palm Beach belonging to our friends Peter Kaiser and Chris Carter; so close to the beach you could hear the waves on the beach as we fell asleep.

Palm Beach is totally gorgeous, relaxed, informal and frequented by the many Argentinians who work the farms, vineyards and restaurants which make up the islands main sources of commerce. Spanish is definitely the first language of the beach. The highlight of our visit was dinner at the Mudbrick Vineyard and Restaurant where we ate beautiful food, sipped wonderful wines and watched the sunset behind the distant Waitakeri Mountains casting a silhouette over Auckland city. We are sure there is more to explore in Waiheke, but why spoil perfection in pursuit of excess?

And so it was time to return to the isthmus of metropolitan Auckland for our final week in New Zealand. Our good friend Claudia Elliott is not only the most generous of hosts, but also has a mission to make sure there are no opportunities missed for fine dinning and waist expansion. Dinner at Cocoro a modern Japanese restaurant where every course is paired with a different wine was a gastronomic explosion.

his is where food, theatre and art combine on a platter! The fish course alone had over 35 types of fish and seafood.

Other culinary adventures included Oyster & Chop, Farina and Amano as well as a wonderful barbecue at Chris and Peter’s Te Atatu home. Between meals we had time to visit the Auckland Art Fair, the Auckland Art Gallery, the rejuvenated areas of Downtown Auckland, view Auckland from the top of the Skytower, sell our wonderful trusty four wheeled friend and sample the many pleasures of Ponsonby Road. We were really pleased to dine with Leslie’s cousins Carl, Elizabeth and Charlie. They are battling a unique set of challenges with amazing resilience; we wish them every strength in the months ahead.

As always, Leslie’s quest for more information about his genealogy led us to Hillsborough Cemetery, the final resting place of his Great, great grandmother Catherine Hollows who was born in Bury, Lancashire and migrated to New Zealand with her six children in 1879. to join her husband who had escaped the coal mines of Lancashire to end up coal mining in Shag Point and Denniston. Catherine passed away in 1930 at the age of 91. There is no headstone or plaque to commemorate this pioneer woman but we located her grave and will make sure something lasting is put in place.

We have maintained our connections to Helston Theatre Company by attending on-line meetings and providing financial reports etc as we have travelled. However it was only on our last full night in Auckland City that we had our first New Zealand theatrical experience. Blanc de Blanc Encore in the Magic Mirrors Speigletent lived up to its extraordinary title. Burlesque mets circus infused with comedic eccentricity; more flesh and feathers than costume drama. We glimpsed bodily parts from below as as artistes flew overhead in poses both exotic and erotic, never missing an opportunity to send up both their audience and their own performance. Pillow fights, pole dancing, naked towel dancing, arial acrobatics, torch-song and hoola-hooping all delivered with pinche. A wonderful evening; not to be missed.

Our last day was spend packing and wondering at the excess of our luggage. We’d packed for all weathers but had never experienced cold, except on the mountainside. We transferred to the Novotel Auckland Airport ready for our early morning departure to Christchurch and connecting flight to Singapore.

Everything had gone so smoothly during this extraordinary three month journey. How lucky we are. We are so grateful to everyone who has helped make it happen… just one more sleep …