Stewart Island

An escape to Stewart Island/Rakiura

The trip to Stewart Island was planned in the UK as we wanted to make the most of our visit to the south island. We booked our accommodation from home, which we debated between flying or sailing. Rumours are that the waters to cross to the island can be and often are choppy; we went for the flight.

After our one night stopover with Helen and Derek in Invercargill where we would return, Helen took us to the airport on Monday 19th December to catch the flight to Oban at 15:30 hours, where we would spend 4 nights with Beachside Cottage as accommodation, a bungalow situated in Butterfield Beach, not far from Halfmoon Bay, where the main harbour/town of Oban, is located.

It was a small plane operated by Stewart Island Flights, maximum 9 passengers, and we could say it was not luxury nor good-looking, but the pilot was handsome, kind and professional and he took off without any issues in a flight that would last 20 minute crossing the Foveaux Strait with views of Invercargill, Bluff and then our destination with lush green native bush, golden beaches and sumptuous inlets . The landing took place without issues either and a minibus was waiting in the runway to transfer the passengers to Oban the flight terminal.

Heath, the property management person for our accommodation, was in the terminal ready to take us to the holiday rental, but not without a drive around town to show us some points of interest: supermarket, restaurant, cafe, sightseeing-tour companies, cruise companies and was quick to give his opinion on each of the owner/operators.

After a short hill up hill down 1.5 Kilometres drive, we arrived to our home for 4 nights. Right on the beach among native bush and with beautiful views of the beach and the sound of the birds and waves. Not the latest in design but it seemed to be confortable and private. So much so, that the front sliding doors are mirrored. Some walkers and trekkers decided that it was a good idea to take a photo of themselves reflected in the mirrored doors and the beach as background. We waved from inside but they had no knowledge of our existence 😂.

I (Johnny) wasn’t well yet with the dragging cold/flu but after unpacking we went for a walk to Oban to have acquaintance with the island, get some provisions (mainly wine) and explore options of things to do during our stay.

Tuesday 20th December, we walked or puffed and grunted again by going hill up hill down to Golden Bay, ferry departure point to Ulva Island/Te Wharawhara - 10 minutes away. 😅

Iconic Ulva Island/Te Wharawhara is one of the few pest-free open sanctuaries in New Zealand. In this unspoiled rainforest you can see rare birds and plants at close quarters in a safe environment mostly unchanged by human activity and free of introduced animals.

Never milled and pest-free since 1997, the island offers threatened native species a safe haven in which to flourish. Healthy populations of kiwi, saddleback and yellowhead can be found – birds which often struggle on the mainland.

Department of conservation

The weather wasn’t particularly hot, but ideal for approximately 10 Km of paths crossing the bushes with the company of the birds, following the routes towards the different small bays and beaches the iconic island offer to the explorer/visitor.

It is worth mentioning that we had lunch on one of the beaches with a sea lion and two cheeky wekas as neighbours 🧜🏻. That doesn’t happen every day.

We returned to the main island at 4pm and back to our cottage via Halfmoon Bay, where we had cider in the only pub in town.

The following day we stayed at home as I (Johnny again) had a rough night with high temperature and bad coughs, probably as a result of the long walk and the cold we felt coming back from the pub. Leslie took good care of me.

On this Wednesday Leslie went to hire a car in Oban, so we could go more places the following day. At $70 - 24 hours for a tiny Mazda. The lady in the shop told Leslie where the car was and that she thought the key would be inside…😂 Apparently, keys are not much in use in Stewart Island. Who is going to steel a car there?.

We woke up on Thursday with good spirit, nice sunny weather and energy to visit more places, so our little Mazda took us to Horseshoe Bay and from there to Lee Bay where we started our walk 5 Kilometres towards Maori Beach, a stunning route in a beautiful reserve.

For dinner we bought frozen blue cod as one cannot buy fresh fish or seafood in this island. Really? Our last night in this paradise.

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On Friday the 23rd, we left Butterfield beach to be transferred to the terminal for our flight, where they weighed the passengers together with the luggage to make sure the total weight doesn’t exceed the allowed capacity.

We had the same handsome pilot in a newer plane and I was invited to seat next to him at the front. Good and enjoyable experience for him and for me.

Helen was waiting for us in Invercargill airport ready for our Christmas preparation.